Agri Culture Written on June 23, 2008, by J Abbott.

The appealing simplicity of farm life never fails to captivate the Grand Mademoiselle, setting off a delightful series of daydreams full of haystacks, apple pies, and corn cob wreaths. Sadly, there are some style stigmas attached to this bucolic scene that have traditionally prevented a suitable translation from barnyard to Bazaar. While the Grand M certainly has more than her fair share of fashion biases, this one is particularly frustrating insofar as it is continuously perpetuated without contention or review. However, with a little imagination, it’s easy to pick out certain elements of the more agriculturally-minded point of view without looking like an extra wandering about the set of The Beverly Hillbillies.

Take gingham for example. Almost synonymous with Grandma’s red-and-white checkered picnic tablecloth, this lovely patterned fabric is rarely considered top drawer. Ah, what a waste! Gingham can be fabulously stylish, if done inconspicuously and with a little panache. The Grand M adores the Covet dress from Urban Outfitters, with its gently over-sized navy gingham checks, farm-y buttons, and square neckline. The poplin cotton is absolutely perfect for conveying a paired down, simple aesthetic without association, which is really where all the trouble begins. When expanded to large, unexpected proportions and elegant tones, gingham is quite beautiful, and this little dress exhibits a classically fashionable take on a traditionally rural icon without resorting to the usual gimmicky interpretations of beloved trademarks. Furthermore, the tunic silhouette and chic colors are miles away from the silliness attributed to gingham, making this dress a wonderful example of agricultural style gone right.

Another iconic yet often abused agricultural style touchstone is the jumper. All too frequently, this formidable fashion challenge is thrown to the dogs, idly regarded by those in the know as a shameful style secret best suited for low brow countryside dilly-dallies or small town parades. “No more!” she cries, “Unfair!”, and with these words, the Grand M is happy to herald this downtrodden dress into the pages of Vogue with Vince’s gorgeous reinvention of an agricultural silhouette with a sorry reputation. This fantastic Jumper Mini Dress boldly stands astride the divide in brilliant muted gray glory, proving once and for all that you can indeed take the girl out of the farm without consigning her to annual transcendence of bumpkin impulses. The lavishly gathered Italian wool, center pleating, V-straps, and stylish slash pockets offer a deliriously demure twist on an often overlooked farm classic, and with the weight of Saks Fifth Avenue behind it, even the most jaded fashionista has to accept the jumper as here to stay … and for the better.

For the Grand M, the most satisfying way to complete this gesture is with playfully pastoral footwear, blending city chic with agricultural adornments. Start with a timeless tone, add in a whimsical dash of floral detailing, and witness the clever unfolding of a true Cinderella story. Chie Mihara’sHeya‘ sandal is a dazzling display of farm style with an urban attitude, replete with luscious flowers on the vamp and intricately gathered leather pleats, spreading like rich and heady summer leaves across the toes. Begin here and this fashion bias might just have met its match …

Studs in Space Written on June 16, 2008, by J Abbott.

The recent return of studded shoes, jackets, and bags is dangerously reminiscent of the over-the-top punk scene, running the risk of remaining a shtick and not a style. However, the Grand Mademoiselle firmly believes that it is possible to don this revived trend without looking like a tired throwback to the bygone days of biker chic and CBGB’s. The trick is to make the stud a symbol of luxury, and to pair it with gentle, billowy shapes to offset the angular, hard-edged, pyramid proportions. Think Sid Vicious meets Yohji Yamamoto, as punk rock staples meet stratospheric and unearthly designs.

It’s easy to accomplish this when a notoriously elegant shoe designer like Loeffler Randall incorporates stud details into softly folded black leather. The ‘Eppy‘ is a classic open-toe sling-back with a demure 2.5″ heel and gathered leather criss-cross vamp, tastefully embellished by brazen gold studs embedded within the folds. Since the studs are buried within a gorgeously designed shoe, they reflect a refined, otherworldly, art-deco aesthetic, evoking a stroll past I.M. Pei’s architecture rather than across a barroom floor littered with peanut shells. To keep this feeling alive, avoid ruining the upscale meets downtown image of the ‘Eppy‘ by wearing something similar. Instead, the Grand M recommends going in the opposite direction by pairing studded shoes with exaggerated balloon sleeves or sleekly triangular hemlines. If you’re a jeans kind of gal, stick with a classic pair of cigarette legs in a muted gray tone to sidestep the potential rock-and-roll fiasco that is black jeans with black shoes (which admittedly almost never actually match anyway). Although it’s summer outside, the Grand M simply can’t resist this jacket top by Emilio Pucci. The cropped balloon sleeve jacket is made of heavenly light gray wool and is fantastically fun and futuristic, with its larger-than-life proportions, collarless neckline, and back ruching. Since the jacket fails to imitate the style of the studded heels, both come across as freshly modern and unique, downplaying the cartoonish quality of the former and the redundancy of the latter. Furthermore, the gray on gray effect is downright ghostly, and reminds the Grand M of a mysterious extra-terrestrial soldier, off to kick some alien you-know-what in some serious shoes. If you’re a dressy kind of gal, opt for Celine’s cocoon V-neck black wool confection, with its odd, spectral shape and monochromatic vibe. The dress tones down the forcefulness of the studs with its intricate darting, origami-esque pin-tucking, and visionary yet slightly vintage cocoon hem. Either way, both pieces are markedly un-punk, and thus thwart the possibility that you’ll be channeling a bygone trend by piling on studded accessories and casual, torn clothing. The Grand M loves the contrast between the anarchic melody of gold studs and the ephemeral simplicity of innovative and odd shapes. If you absolutely must wear another studded something, pick a piece with studs that aren’t carbon copies of your style foundation. The ‘Eppy‘ would look divine with Juicy Couture’s black onyx geometric ring, which features deep black pyramid studs bookending a glorious gold wraparound band.

Summer Style Inversion Written on June 11, 2008, by J Abbott.

The Grand Mademoiselle absolutely loves the tension sparked by the conflicting patterns, colors, and styles of summer fashion. In truth, the most satisfying way to quiet the swelling cacophony of competing trends is to assuage the situation by throwing out all the rules to make room for a freshly conceived, modern take on the old assumption that to be successful, an ensemble must convey a consistent theme from head to toe.

Two themes continue to captivate the Grand M with each passing summer. First, the ethereal, gauzy romanticism of bright whites, pale taupes, faded golds, and sheer shifts as featherlight and gentle as the breeze that carries dandelion seeds. Against this, the Grand M cannot resist the glorious mysticism of tribal prints, bold oranges and browns, wooden jewelry, and ethnic ensembles that reveal the underlying outlook of a culture. What ties these two themes together is their authentically organic appeal, insofar as both remind the Grand M of the earth’s bounteous offerings and rich layers of life, in all its polar manifestations.

To celebrate these two parts of one whole, the Grand M suggests a style inversion of girl scout swap meet proportions. Take a floaty, English country dress and wear oodles of Persian mirrored bangles. Pair a Moroccan scarf with a smocked linen Oxford button-down. Too much of the same is so … safe, so break free of the restrictive limits encompassing a definitive trend and mix pieces that reflect different outlooks. Start with a romantic dress, such as the Madison by designer Julie Haus, who manages to impart a distinctly vintage feeling to this undeniably feminine, metallic gold confection. The forgiving jersey fabric, short puff sleeves, pin-tucked bust, and easy knife pleats at the waist lend an air of old-fashioned modesty to this unassuming dress. If you prefer something longer, opt for DKNY’s Tiered Maxi Dress, effortlessly constructed of stunningly white and airy voile with a gently gathered bodice, ruffly tiered skirt, smocked empire waist, and surprising side pockets. The Maxi Dress absolutely oozes ethereal girlishness, conjuring images of maidens picking flowers in a golden field, their gently waved tresses shimmering in the sunlight.Instead of pairing these gossamer garments with equally angelic shoes, take a different route and channel a bit of hard-edged, ancient Roman bravado, imbued with a touch of sleek Saharan boldness. The Swain sandal by designer Matt Bernson is sure to fit the bill, with its rich tobacco hue, vegetable oil dyed leather upper, zipper details, and wraparound ankle straps. The Swain is minimalistic, tough, and refreshingly grounded, providing the perfect antidote to the saccharin sweetness of floaty frocks. Going against the grain by pairing the Swain with a romantic dress leaves open the question of what would normally complete the ethereal theme; hence, the Grand M thinks that Bernardo’s Must sandal solves the puzzle. Available in muted gold or pale pewter, the Must has a softly corded metallic leather upper and is adorned with delightful vintage disk hardware, reminiscent of a peasant girl walking among cornstalks in the foggy glow of a rising sun.The Must seems the natural compliment to the Madison or Maxi dress, but to accomplish a summer style inversion, the Grand M suggests pairing this sandal with a frock more suited to the Swain’s composition. Designer Maria Bonita Extra’s Comie Print Dress is the perfect piece to pair with the Must. The jaunty Brazilian print is exuberantly earthy, and the subtly tented proportions are pleasantly exaggerated by knife pleats at the neck and shoulders with a tie-belt at the waist to keep the shape under control. The cloud-inspired printed panels, splashed with vibrant yet muted hues, demonstrates the Grand M’s earlier contention that these two opposing summer themes are married by their shared foundation in all things organic, leading to a match made in summer style heaven.

The Sweet Life: Summer Giveaway Written on June 10, 2008, by J Abbott.

For the Grand Mademoiselle, there is nothing more satisfying than solving the infuriating puzzle of matching the perfect summer sandal with its equally perfect handbag mate to achieve a classy and understated warm weather wardrobe staple. While the winter months afford the ease of pairing chic leather boots with luxurious wristlets and sinfully supple hobos, the summer season proves to be an unrelenting source of fashion frustration. Does any bag really go with beaded thongs or sequined peep-toe slides? How can one possibly pull off a sophisticated summer solstice ensemble if footwear leans toward the casual and handbags morph into kitschy carryalls? The seemingly irresolvable discord between summer shoes and bags stems from the materials, colors, and shapes involved. Technicolor slides and plastic flip-flops invade a market already saturated by cutesy straw clutches and canvas totes emblazoned with cheeky messages, leaving the Grand M buried beneath the oppressive weight of summer style ennui.

However, hope abounds in the collections proffered by footwear and handbag designers Dolce Vita and Lesa Wallace, respectively. Both prove that it is indeed possible to find simple and chic creations, that when paired, reveal sultry summer style in all its steamy splendor. Lesa Wallace’s recent handbag collection is absolutely stunning, replete with lush leathers and rich with the spirit of a singularly personal passion that translates to match every woman’s inner style life. Designer Wallace launched her first handbag line in 2003, and has recently garnered loads of fashion media attention given the wonderfully sensitive point of view that is irrepressible in her collections. Wallace’s mission is quite dear to the Grand M’s heart: to design the ultimate handbag line that will bear witness to current trends while retaining that classic element which secures a bag eternal glory. It is more than fair to say that Wallace has successfully seen her mission through, and her latest collection makes the Grand M swoon.

For the Grand M who prefers a roomier companion, the Prosperity bag offers all the perks of a posh leather carryall without the fuss and fiddlesticks typically associated with summer styles. This magnificent shoulder bag features dual zippered compartments and handsome front pockets, all gently formed of tumbled Italian washed leather in a variety of subtle tones. The Grand M prefers the Prosperity in Black, however, don’t be afraid to choose a bolder hue to carry on your journey through the blistering streets. Available in Medium and Large, the Prosperity is destined to enter the handbag Hall of Fame, alongside such luminaries as the Balenciaga Motorcycle or (dare I say it) the Hermes Birkin.

If the Prosperity proves too much bag for you, select the Nature Clutch in Cork, adorned with a hard-edged polished brass turn lock, and be-speckled with delicate flakes of shimmering metallic gold to offset the organic beauty of the Nature’s Cork pattern. The feminine proportions and light hue of this wondrous clutch provide the perfect antidote to the doldrums of beachy summer totes. Make the most of Lesa Wallace’s incredible creations by donning a pair of surprisingly elegant, chic, and un-stylized T-Strap thong sandals by Dolce Vita. Slide into the gloriously crafted patent shine of the Dahlia as you reach for your Prosperity bag or Nature Clutch and head out on a languid day of window shopping. Available in a sizzling quintet of patent Black, Red, Green, and Silver, the Dahlia epitomizes the happy union of laid-back summer style with modest fashion know-how. The demure and functional 1″ rubber wedge heel adds an element of comfort to the Dahlia’s uptown aura, and the adjustable side buckle ensures that your tootsies will be snugly confined despite the sandal’s airy, open construction. Now, my dear Grand M’s, for the really, really, FANTASTIC news! After calling upon the steadfastly loyal ladies at Barefoot Tess, the Grand Mademoiselle is offering a free pair of Dolce Vita Dahlia’s to one lucky reader. To enter, kindly email your name, address, shoe size, and color preference to grand.mademoiselle@gmail.com. The winner will be notified on Friday, June 13th via email and her Dahlia’s shipped merrily on their way!

Paradise Found Written on June 3, 2008, by J Abbott.

The Grand Mademoiselle recently returned from a lovely vacation in rural Kentucky to happen upon a new Eden in the fashion world. Although paradise can certainly be found within the bucolic landscapes of lush, green, picturesque farms dotting the countryside, true heaven for the Grand M is the provocatively vivid, imaginative, and idyllic u-turn taken by shoe designers and enthusiastically donned by fashionistas. Something rare and precious is happening these days that elicits sheer joy and irreverent bliss in the Grand M’s heart, moving us ever closer to the holy of holies, that arcanum concealing the style mysteries of fashion nirvana, which the Grand M imagines to be the realization of an untrendy trend. Nothing thrills the Grand M more than freedom, and the opportunity to mix biker jackets with feathered pumps embodies the Elysian gaiety currently consuming fashion, injecting a much needed dose of personality into cookie-cutter, runway copycats. Witness the delectable creations from Givenchy, Balenciaga, and Giuseppe Zanotti for Balmain, all characterized by forceful gladiator details, towering heels, odd shapes, and effortlessly paired with a broad range of garments to form a halcyon panoply of enviable ensembles. Worn with everything from trouser shorts and tailored blazers to haute couture mini dresses and ball gowns (a la Sex & The City), this new breed of bold footwear is uniquely versatile and quite simply … strange. It’s as if we had regretfully forgotten that the shoes needn’t match the dress, that in fact, it’s better if they don’t, and in a big way.

Of course, it’s difficult for Grand M’s to translate the looks sported by Gwyneth Paltrow and Sarah Jessica Parker given the unforgivable absence of au courant footwear in larger sizes. However, there are exceptions to every rule, and with a bit of savvy and a sprinkle of luck, the exciting new trend is accessible to all. The secret to successfully co-opting this current style can be found in the marriages of masculine and feminine, bold designs and minimalism, bohemian details and debutante joie de vivre. Take a pair of high-waisted, pinstripe gabardine trousers and throw on a wild magenta chiffon jacket with studded snake skin ankle booties. Pick a classic A-line cocktail dress and slip into some 4″ yellow ostrich leather espadrilles. Do whatever, just make it your own!

Running freely with this exhilarating burst of fashion freedom, the Grand M has selected her favorite picks to represent the achievement of style Utopia. Without rules, anything goes, so choose your own items and let it rip. The Grand M simply adores a good gladiator sandal, and designer Matt Bernson offers the perfect pair. The ‘KM Gladiator‘ in soft gold, with its sparkle suede leather upper, handsome oiled foot bed, bold golden studs, and delicately woven straps is absolutely ideal. Step into Zac Posen’sReglisse‘ silk dress in your KM’s and you’ve done it. The sumptuous black silk, intricately sculpted bodice, rolled rope scalloped neck, and puff sleeves scream adventurous elegance. Posen is a master of contrast, and the ‘Reglisse‘ is no exception. The dainty bow and pleat detailing adorning the front are offset by a cheeky peekaboo back and vented hem, adding just the right splash of vamp to a potentially staid sheath. Combined with Bernson’s gladiators, the ‘Reglisse‘ provides a perfectly executed instantiation of fashion paradise found.

If flats aren’t your cup of tea, take another approach and mix a fabulously colorful and intricate statement top or jacket with laid back shorts and fashion-forward footwear. The Grand M’s picks? Matthew Williamson’sRacer Back Embellished Waistcoat‘ over a casual Hanes tank with Helmut Lang’s slightly corporate tailored black shorts, jazzed up by the outlandishly fanciful proportions of Corso Como’sDodie‘ wedge heels. Williamson’s unusual waistcoat is a great foundation to build your look around, and the rainbow of shimmering paillettes is perfectly countered by the hippie fringing, retro flower appliques, and modest button detailing. The deep V-neck and racer back design add surprising modern twists to what might otherwise remain a rather common, old-fashioned bohemian vest. To add interest and spark curiosity, go against the grain and pair Williamson’s waistcoat with Lang’s minimalistic, black cotton poplin shorts. The simple, easy, and faintly masculine silhouette, complete with soft pleats and fabulous side pockets, hits just above the knee and offers an unforeseen yet delightful addition to the mish-mash of colors and fabrics in Williamson’s top.

Now for the real excitement … Corso’sDodie‘ heel is essential to transforming this ensemble into a paradisal style showpiece, and it demonstrates the playful spirit of the newly untrendy trend. Tower above the crowd as you stand proudly atop four glorious inches of shoe heaven, resting on a 3/4″ platform. The ‘Dodie‘ is available in black, bone, and deep blue (blue being the Grand M’s favorite). This innovative ankle bootie is artfully crafted with a black satin leather-tipped ankle tie, and the soft calf leather upper and cushioned insole guarantee a pain-free day out on the town. With its whimsical shape and Crayola color, the ‘Dodie‘ is the must-have shoe of fashion nirvana … The best part of fashion paradise found? You get to make it your own.

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